Top Sealing Chimney
Click a picture for sizing options
Damper / Cap
17+ Sizes to fit
any type flue opening...
The all stainless steel CHIM-A-LATOR ® easily mounts on top of a masonry fireplace
flue and is operated by a convenient, adjustable regulator installed on the side
wall of the fireplace.
It is far more efficient than conventional cast iron
dampers and the ideal replacement for old defective dampers.
The perfect top sealing chimney damper made for raised or flush flue applications.
The Chimalator fits square, rectangular, oval, odd un-even sized openings and the popular ''there is no flue, it's just a hole''
for over 30 years to be the most trouble free top sealing damper.
- 100% Stainless Steel
- Satisfaction Guaranteed. If within 30 days, you
are not fully satisfied return the CHIM-A-LATOR® for a full refund.
- Lifetime Warranty, best on the market today.
- Fast Installation Comes fully assembled for fast and easy
"bolt to flue" installation.
- Chimney Fire Tested with little or no damage to unit. Will not fall
and close flue in event of a chimney fire.
- Saves Energy tight seal on top of the chimney, keeps heat in when
fireplace is not in use.
- 17 Standard Sizes
- Six Setting Regulator controls the amount of draft to produce more
heat when burning.
- Prevents Down Draft Smoking caused by wind.
- Keeps Out Animals, birds, insects, bees, rain, leaves, wind and
Questions?... Call 1-800-685-8263 or e-mail us at
NOTES & INSTALLATION
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE INSTALLING AND USING CHIM-A-LATOR®
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE MORE
THAN ONE FIREPLACE FLUE IN YOUR CHIMNEY COMPLETE THIS TEST
1.0 CROSS OVER SMOKING
There is a phenomenon that
sometimes occurs in masonry flues that run parallel through the same chimney
called "crossover smoking". Crossover smoking occurs when the homeowner starts a
fire in their upstairs fireplace and notices that there is smoke coming into the
house through their downstairs fireplace opening.
There are two primary
reasons why smoke from one fireplace enters the house through the other
fireplace. First, winds, downdrafting, and/or deflection can cause smoke to come
down the other flue. Or second, smoke could be communicating from one flue to
the other through cracks in the flue tile joints. It is this second situation
that is called crossover smoking from one flue to the other.
Putting a Chim-A-Lator® on
will solve the first problem. However, a Chim-A-Lator® will not solve the second
problem. In fact, installing a Chim-A-Lator® may make the problem more
noticeable. The Chim-A-Lator® does not cause the problem, but by sealing off the
second flue, the crossover smoke can not escape up the second flue. The smoke
instead is drawn down the second flue, thus making the existing problem more
B. TO TEST
Cover unused flue at the
top with a piece of cardboard and a weight. Start up a fairly hot fire in the
other fireplace. Then open the damper in the other fireplace and observe in the
flue with a flashlight whether or not any smoke is crossing over. Also, turn on
a kitchen and bathroom fan and observe under extreme conditions. If there is a
power attic ventilator, it should never run when using the fireplace. It pulls
too much air out of the house.
C. TO CORRECT THE
There is a very simple,
practical, cost‑free method of dealing with crossover smoking once Chim-A-Lators®
are installed: open both Chim-A-Lators®, reverse the draft in both chimneys in
the usual manner, and then start your fire. Also, the opening of a window or the
installation of an Air-A-Lator® fresh air intake to reduce the negative pressure
in the home would help.
This is a
solution but does not solve the problem with your fireplace. Try sealing up any
cracks or holes, including the expansion crack just inside and above the
fireplace opening. Use high temperature fireplace caulk or crinkled foil to seal
holes and cracks. If this does not correct the problem, the leaks are most
likely in the joints of the flue tile. This condition is best left to the
experts. Many chimney sweeps and masons are relining, repairing and insulating
chimney flues today with modern and proven methods
WARNING: BEFORE GOING TO
TAKE NECESSARY, PRECAUTIONS WHEN ON LADDER OR ROOF. IT
CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS. We recommend that you call your local chimney sweep or
mason; they will be able to do the installation for you, safely! They can also
inspect and clean your chimney to be sure it is safe.
Open existing damper. Screw four frame bolts (1/4‑20 x 1 1/2") into
Proceed to roof with UPPER UNIT and a screwdriver, a flashlight is also
There must also be at least 1 1/2" of flue tile
extending from cement cap - if not, you will need a flue extension.
C. Unwind entire cable
assembly (1) (cable, cable casing and turnbuckle) by spreading out over
CAREFUL NOT TO KINK CABLE.
Lower turnbuckle, cable casing and cable down flue.
Set upper unit on flue tile, center unit and tighten frame bolts (2).
Do not over tighten.
You are now done on the roof. Proceed to fireplace.
STEP 2: AT FIREPLACE
Pull excess cable down through damper area. Be sure there are no kinks in
Position regulator unit on right or left side of fireplace, whichever
brings the cable down more straight. (For LEFT WALL installation remove screws
at (y). Flip hooks so they are pointing down.) Test location with
removable handle (5) on end of lever (4). Move it up and down to
be sure it does not hit the frame of the glass door, the lintel, or floor.
Holes are best drilled in center of firebricks if possible.
Mark and drill (4) clean holes for regulator bracket using 3/16" masonry
drill bit. Attach to wall with #14 x 1 1/4" (3) sheet screws. (These
screws work best and will not loosen or melt.) (If drilling into steel fireplace
wall use 7/32” drill bit)
Note: If screw gets tight do not force it. Back off
screw 1/4 turn and try again, if still tight remove screw and drill clean hole
and ream hole a little bit with drill bit.
Hook turnbuckle (1d) in lever (4) as shown. With lever
beneath the top hook (A), loosen cable clamp (1c) and pull cable
through eye of turnbuckle. Look at where the cable touches the old damper frame.
At this point notch frame or drill hole in frame of old damper and thread cable
through hole. This allows you to also close the lower damper. Closing the lower
damper will reduce frost build‑up on upper unit and also help reduce any smell
from coming down flue.
Set turnbuckle half way (Pic. # 2). With lever beneath top hook (A),
pull cable until you feel spring tension. Make small loop and tighten cable
clamp and cut off excess cable.
turnbuckle, holding upper eye. Cable is properly adjusted when you need a little
extra pressure to put the lever (4) in the bottom hook (B).
1a. CABLE (400 LB TEST
‑ 30 Ft.)
1b. CABLE CASING (7
1c. CABLE CLAMP & SCREW
FRAME BOLTS ‑ 4 ea. 1/4‑20 x 1 1/2
#14 X 1 1/4 SHEET SCREWS (4 EA.)
Open CHIM-A-LATOR® full open. The top hook is the full open position.
After fire is burning and flue is warmed up, close down CHIM-A-LATOR®
by lowering lever one notch at a time. When smoke starts to back up into
house, open one notch or until smoke stops. In doing this, more heat is
realized and wood lasts longer.
As fire burns down and you loose draft, open the CHIM-A-LATOR® all
the way to prevent smoking.
After fire is out close damper to stop heated home air from escaping
up the flue.
NOTE: Under extreme cold temperatures damper could frost shut. If this
happens open to 2nd notch (C), damper should free within a few
IF YOU HAVE MORE
THAN ONE FIREPLACE FLUE IN YOUR CHIMNEY COMPLETE THIS TEST
3.0 FIREPLACE PROBLEMS
There are several
reasons why a fireplace may emit smoke back into a room. This is known as
"Back‑Smoking." "Down Drafting" means that the "Back‑Smoking" is caused by wind
blowing down the chimney. "Cross‑over Smoking" means that the "Back‑Smoking" is
caused by smoke crossing from one flue to another.
Fireplace "Back‑Smokes" only when the fire is
first started. See 1‑2.
Fireplace continues to "Back‑Smoke" after
chimney is well‑heated. See3‑4‑5‑6‑7‑8‑9‑10.
Cold air comes down out of chimney when
fireplace is not being used. See 10‑11‑12‑13.
Make sure the damper is fully opened at start.
As soon as the damper is opened, the cold outside air (which is heavier
than warm air) wants to push down causing a reverse draft. Where the fireplace
chimney is built on the outside wall of the house it may be necessary to warm up
the flue by rolling up newspaper torches, lighting and holding the torch up in
the throat of the flue to start the draft.
If there are trees, hill, a neighboring house, or anything higher than
your chimney, the wind coming over them drives down and creates a "Down‑draft"
and causes "Back‑Smoking". Installing a Chim-A-Lator® absolutely stops
"Down‑drafting" and is guaranteed to do this.
Check if the existing damper is large enough. Damper opening area should
be 50% larger than the flue area. To correct this condition, remove old damper
and enlarge opening, if possible. Then install a Chim-A-Lator® instead of the
old style damper.
Sometimes a fireplace “Back‑Smokes" because there is not a large enough
smoke chamber. The smoke chamber is the hooded area just above the fireplace
opening. The chamber must be large enough for the smoke to gather and funnel up
the flue. Lowering the top edge of the fireplace opening with a closure hood can
enlarge the smoke chamber.
Some fireplaces "Back‑Smoke" because the fireplace hearth opening is more
than 10 times the area of the flue opening (on short chimneys, 7 times is
desirable). Again, a closure hood that reduces the size of the fireplace opening
at the top can remedy this condition; or another method would be to raise the
hearth with one or more layers of brick (an "AD" Air-A-Lator® could easily be
installed with brick).
"Back‑Smoking" can be caused because the house is shut up too tight.
Exhaust fans, kitchen fans, furnace operating, actually can create a vacuum in
the house. Power attic ventilators can draw a lot of air out of house proper ‑
thru conduits, cracks, etc. Open a window about 2" to 6" to see if this is the
case, or open the ash pit damper and the "clean‑out door" outside the house.
Smoking can occur when there are openings or cracks in the smoke chamber.
“Back‑Smoking" can occur when there is a low barometric pressure, heavy
humid air, no wind or lack of sufficient heat rising to create a draft. ALWAYS
MAINTAIN A HOT ENOUGH FIRE.
Clean chimney. Too much soot or tar is caused by green wood, other poor
fuels, or lack of air. To clean, call a "chimney sweep." Ask for a periodic
Very old fireplaces were built without a smoke shelf or with an improper
smoke shelf, thus wind blows in quite easily. Installing a Chim-A-Lator®
eliminates the need for a smoke shelf.
Metal to metal dampers are not airtight, even when they are new, and they
warp from the extreme heat. Installing a Chim-A-Lator® corrects this problem,
because it fits tight and the damper will never warp.
Many times the old damper is broken or inoperable. Installing a
Chim-A-Lator® is the only practical way to replace it.
are built at the outside wall line (and even though there is an airtight
Chim-A-Lator® damper installed), a certain amount of cold air can come down.
This type of chimney is almost entirely exposed to cold outside air and a slow
"convection current" occurs. The warm air rises in the flue, cools, and falls at
a slow rate. To stop this, close lower damper also or ball up a newspaper plug
and stuff it up in the throat. Use this to start the next fire. NOTE: When
building a new fireplace, be sure to install a fresh air intake in front of the
grate. This does wonders for a successful fireplace. Ask for our Air-A-Lator®